Flea and Tick Prevention

I grew up in South Carolina on 68 acres with anywhere from 1-6 dogs at all times. For those of you who have never been to South Carolina there are many amazing things about the state, but one drawback are the fleas and ticks. For some reason, fleas in South Carolina have become resistant to Frontline, and pet owners and vets are having to figure out a variety of new solutions to this problem. From speaking with my vet fleas becoming resistant to Frontline is a trending problem, and one my vet’s parents have experienced as far north as Southern Virginia. As you are well aware, fleas and ticks can spread a variety of illnesses, diseases, and parasites - and flea and tick prevention - whether natural or through traditional medicine and pharmaceuticals - is an integral part of promoting good health in your pets.

For me, living in DC, and before that Roanoke, VA, Frontline once a month had always done the trick. I even stop using it for a few months in the winter to avoid putting unnecessary toxic chemicals on my furry friends. The only time Milly were after trips to South Carolina, and Hush had never had them.

That is until recently. Despite my religious applications, always perfectly on schedule, Hush seems to have gotten fleas. Not exactly surprising – she is running in the woods off leash almost every day. Hush has a much thicker and longer coat than Milly – she is very much bred to standard with the thick double coat, which is water repellent. I love her beautiful coat, but it does make it more difficult to notice skin problems. I first noticed some scratching, a telltale sign of fleas. I used a flea comb and found no signs of flea dander, which left me confused. However, when I bathed her and dried her with the high power professional dryer I immediately saw bite marks and flea dander. Having spoken with other people within the Golden Retriever breed, I learned many people up their flea/tick prevention before doing any field training in the woods.

So now the question lies in what to do next. There is a new(er) once-a-month topical skin flea/tick/mosquito product on the market called Vectra 3D, which I have used with good results in the past. Vectra is only available by prescription (I think), and from what I’ve found is more expensive than Frontline. However, I have an inside connection through a friend who works in veterinary pharmaceutical sales, and was recently given a three month supply. Having used it in the past, I did notice the smell is much stronger than other topical flea meds. Finally, some dogs have bad reactions to it. If you are going to try Vectra, make sure to follow the instructions. Unlike Frontline, which is applied in one spot between the shoulder blades, Vectra needs to be dispersed in three spots going down the back – between the shoulder blades, mid-back, and above the tail. If not applied this way, your dog’s skin can get burned from the medication. This product is a brand new technology created with a new molecule called Dinotefuron which is proven to kill fleas and ticks for a full 30 days, and does not have the resistance that other flea/tick products may have. It also is proven to kill all fleas and ticks on the animal within six hours of application. Additionally, the animal does not have to be bitten for the medicine to begin killing Vectra 3D also features a patented applicator for ease of use and is safer for the environment.

When I use any topical flea medication I always apply them at night, just before I go to bed. This minimizes the contact I have with the toxic chemicals, and women who are pregnant should never apply topical flea medications.

I also placed an order for Capstar. Unfortunately, this somehow was shipped to my old address… so I am not sure when I will receive it. For those of you unfamiliar with Capstar, it is a pill given orally that kills all living fleas on the dog’s body. This is not a preventative, and only kills any fleas that may exist, working in a similar manner to a traditional flea-dip. I personally have used Capstar with excellent results in the past – although, I have heard certain dogs do not respond well to it. Capstar has always been especially handy with trips to South Carolina – I know the fleas are in that environment and 2 doses spaced 2 weeks apart combined with Frontline usually does the trick for Milly. This said, before trying any new product; always speak with your veterinarian, especially if your dog has any special health concerns, such as seizures.

Another good product is Comfortis, a once monthly pill that works as a preventative. Comfortis has been shown to have very good results, and the ease of administering a monthly pill makes it appealing to many pet owners. However, it is only available by prescription. In the past, I’ve used Comfortis with great results with Milly, but again the product has mixed reviews. The only reason I stopped using it was because my current vet does not stock it within their office pharmacy, and having had no flea problems, I did not feel I needed her to send in prescriptions to 1-800-PetMeds or a similar pet pharmacy. I think I will be switching to this soon, though.

There are also a variety of natural supplements, like Bug Off Garlic, on the market that you simply mix in each day with your dog’s food. I have heard these, especially combined with traditional medicine, work beautifully. However, I have not tried any myself.

In the meantime, I’ve bathed the dogs multiple times with a flea shampoo (twice weekly), but fear this could dry or damage their coats. I have also started spraying each dog with Adams Flea/Tick spray before going into the woods, and have noticed all of the scratching has stopped. I was also able to secure one dose of Capstar for each dog. They are both scheduled to have their topical preventives applied again on Thursday, and this time I will be using my free samples of Vectra.

When it comes to flea preventatives there will always be mixed reviews of each product on the market, and all dogs respond differently. As far as traditional medicine goes, most flea products are toxic chemicals – that is how they kill and/or prevent the fleas – with this in mind, it is always a good idea to work with your veterinarian before making a change. Also, as of December 2009, Frontline is available without a prescription. As a result, there are numerous internet vendors selling counterfeit Frontline and/or damaged products. These can be extremely dangerous to your dog, so when using an OTC product, always buy from a reputable source, and not simply the cheapest available.

Murder At The Dog Park:

After work on Monday, I decided to take the dogs on what I hoped would be a nice long walk in the woods, followed by some time playing in the creek. Our plans were cut short by the following events, as told to you step-by-step, by Milly.

Step 1: Sniff out a squirrel hiding in a bush

Step 2: Chase squirrel up a tree and weigh the options

Step 3: Begin to bark at squirrel

Step 4: Consult with Hush to formulate a new action plan

Step 5: Attempt to climb tree

Steps 6-11: Miraculously coerce squirrel from tree; with the help of Hush surround squirrel on all sides; catch squirrel; Play tug-of-war with the squirrel; Chase Lydia with the squirrel; Murder squirrel

Step 12: Realize the squirrel got his final revenge before death

A Milly and Hush Update

I wanted to give you a few quick updates on the pups. First, Hush is in season. This is her first heat cycle, and so far we’re doing well. She went into season on Monday, May 16, 2011 (putting that on the blog, as I’m sure I’ll have to refer back to it at some point!). I had a feeling this was approaching, I’ve blogged about it in the past, but last week there were more and more symptoms. First, when grooming her she transformed from sweet puppy into common street walker when the high powered dog dryer came near her tail. Second, while drying her after her bath I noticed a smell – not an infection smell, or a dirty smell, just a distinct musky odor. So, it was no surprise on Monday when I saw some blood on her fur. All of the signs are there – bleeding, swollen vulva, enlarged nipples, change in personality, interest in other dogs, etc. Now, I have the joyous task of keeping her away from males for the next 4 weeks, and making sure she doesn’t leave blood on my white carpeting. Did you know that even neutered males still try to mate females when they are in heat? I didn’t. They can even get tied like an intact male would during breeding, crazy, isn’t it? So, it’s just us girls for the next month. Mind you, since males can smell her from up to 6 miles away, we have to be insanely careful in everything we do. To be extra safe, I keep a diaper on her when outdoors. And of course, she is always on a leash.

Milly is scheduled for her semi-annual senior exam today. I always get a little nervous, since the later years in life are so critical for preventative care. Milly is 11ish, and it might be time to make her 12, and in great health and extremely fit and active. But, I won’t feel at ease until all of her blood panels come back after today’s exam. I worry. I noticed what I think might be tape worms in both dogs’ stools two weeks ago, and so we’ll also be doing stool samples on them. Neither dog has fleas, but they did get into a few dead animals, which is another way to contract tape worms. I am confident in the ophthalmologist I have been using with Hush, but because the specialist is out of town, I’m going to let my general vet take a look at Hush’s eyes to see if we can put her on something until our next ophthalmologist appointment.

Finally, this weekend I will be going to the dog shows in Manassas, VA to watch. While there, I will be meeting with a very well-known dog show handler to discuss Hush. I have decided, while I do want to do some showing with her myself, I feel I need to improve more in my handling abilities before taking her in the ring. I want her first few times to be very positive, and a professional can guarantee that. He will be doing an informal evaluation of Hush, and if he deems her show quality, which we know she is, we’ll then discuss a schedule. Because of her age, she isn’t likely to win that much at this point in the game, so we will be very selective in what shows we enter her in. This handler lives about 2.5 hours from me, so relatively close, and Hush will be boarded with him and his wife (also a well-known handler) leading up to any shows for training and conditioning.

One Product To Always Have On Hand

There are a few items all dog owners should always have in-stock, and one of them is Benadryl. While I am not a veterinarian, I have found this to be very handy. Of course, with any medication, consult your vet before giving it. While Benadryl is not approved by the FDA for use in dogs and cats, it is commonly accepted by the veterinary community.

The type of Benadryl I use is the regular old normal kind, the original hot pink tablets. Generic works just fine, too. I keep it handy for all sorts of allergic reactions that may crop up from general itchiness to insect bites and bee stings, and you can also use it for travel anxiety and coughs. As far as dosage goes, my veterinarian recommends one 25mg pill for every 25 pounds. This is a higher dosage than a human would take, and my vet has said up to 4-pills can be given to my dogs per day, but make sure to evenly space it with 2 pills in the AM and 2 pills in the PM – my dogs weigh 50 and 58lbs.

Of course, there are things to watch out for. Never give a pregnant or nursing dog Benadryl. Also, do not use Benadryl in animals that are allergic to it or other antihistamines. Do not use in animals with glaucoma, prostate disease, urinary obstruction, and high blood pressure. Do not use in pregnant or nursing animals. Use with caution when given with other CNS (central nervous system)-depressant drugs such as tranquilizers or barbiturates. Always tell your veterinarian and pharmacist what other medications your pet is taking. To learn more about Benadryl and dogs, talk to your veterinarian, also, this 1-800-Pet-Meds page has some good info.

Moving with Your Dog: My "Tail" of Doing Just That

I wish I had had my camera during the moving process! When I packed a large red suitcase and turned my back for a few seconds, Milly climbed right in to make sure I didn't forget her!

I haven't been the best about posting the past few weeks, because I was busy moving! There are a lot of reasons I decided to move from Arlington, VA (two stop lights to DC) to Falls Church, VA (entirely too many stop lights to DC). I knew it was time to move from the house I've lived in for the past 3 years when a large tree fell in my yard about four months ago, and my landlord left it there for weeks, and then left my roommates and I to do the clean up. The house I was living in also had a mold problem, which the landlord denied, and I did not want to bring my puppy into a home with mold. Finally, the last reason for the move was a desire to have more space and a spacious yard for Milly - at the old house, the "fenced in yard" was more like a fenced in patio with a grassy patch.



Milly has always been great at adjusting to new locations and is an excellent traveler, but she gets very anxious at the idea of moving. If she so much as sees me packing my Vera Bradley duffel bag she instantly becomes velcroed to my side. With this in mind, I took some precautions to make the move as easy and as stress free as possible on her.

Moving is always chaotic, and my move was no exception, because I have entirely too much stuff. Since Milly gets stressed just when I pack a suitcase, I worried packing an entire house would really take her over the edge. She notices even the smallest changes around the house, as many dogs do. My solution to this was to start packing early and pack slowly overtime, long before the big changes like furniture moving would take place. I started packing boxes about 6 weeks before the move, and let Milly sniff and watch the process. By making subtle changes, I was able to reduce the stress of moving on Milly.

Milly is on a strict schedule - she eats at a certain time, she goes out at a specific time, and she is walked at a set time. Throughout this schedule, I always mix in some car rides and trips to the park, as well as daily training that I incorporate into our everyday routine. I really believe in keeping animals on schedules and putting consistency into their lives, and throughout the moving process I made sure to keep Milly on her schedule. About 5 days before the big move I packed Milly's box of stuff, but left out her favorite toys, her leash, her dishes and place mats, and a few other accessories we use on a daily basis. Milly had a blast helping me pack her toys (she has entirely too many), because she got to rediscover some she didn't even know she had! Even though I had packed most of her belongings, I made sure throughout the moving process that I always stuck to her routine - even on the day of the move!

I would hate to ever lose Milly, she is microchipped, but I knew with the move people would be coming in and out of the house, and I didn't want to risk anything so I kept her ID tags on her at all times. She actually wears three ID tags - one with my parents address and phone number, one with my old address and cell phone number, and one with the new address and cell number. Up-to-date ID tags are critical when moving.

On the day of the move, I had a friend bring over her dog to play with Milly. We kept Evan (friend's dog) and Milly in my sunroom with the door propped open to the back yard, plenty of Kongs, toys, beds and water. I put a sign on the door in English and Spanish so movers, roommates, and friends would know not to open the door to the sunroom. This way, there was no risk of Milly slipping out while people were moving boxes and furniture.

I like to always be prepared, so I mapped out pet-friendly hotels near my new house in case for whatever reason, I could not move in on the scheduled move-in date. I also packed Milly's food and supplements in ziplock bags for about 4 days of meals - this way, they would be easy to get to with unpacking. To be on the safe side, I put Milly's medical records in my glove box. This was a great way to do it, and I'll make sure to use the same system in the future, especially if moving long distances.

I decided to keep Milly and Evan in the sunroom at the old house until everything was moved in to the new house. This way, I just had to fill a duffle bag with their supplies and go over to the new house. Naturally, I wanted to show Milly her new house and let her explore, but I fought this instinct to keep her safe. I found not having her there while the movers unloaded boxes and furniture really kept her safest. It wasn't until everyone stopped going in and out of the new house that Milly got to come over, and then I kept her in a room with the door closed and some toys while we unpacked. If she had gotten anxious in the room alone, I would have had someone sit with her and keep her company.

When I unpacked, I set everything up for Milly to maintain consistency. At the old house, she had her bed on the floor of my bedroom, and this is the same at the new house. She kept her toys in the living room at the old house, and this remains in the new house. Meals are served in the kitchen at the new house, just like they were at the old house. I even put her crate in the same place. This seemed to make the adjustment much easier for Milly.

Unpacking can be a long process, I'm still in that process, but I didn't let Milly explore the new house until everything was safely dog proofed. Half empty boxes can contain items that are dangerous to dogs (like cleaning supplies or baking chocolate), and might lead a dog to display destructive behavior. I also walked the perimeter of our new yard to ensure there were no holes in the new fence.

On our first morning in the new house, we were already back to the same routine. Having the ziplocked baggies of meals for the first few days really helped. I made sure we had the same yard play time schedule, and the same walking schedule. Milly seems to really enjoy walks through our new neighborhood, and I'm hoping to meet some of my new neighbors on our walks!

Moving is a huge change for everyone involved, dogs included! Until we are fully adjusted, Milly will remain on a leash, or supervised in our fenced in yard. Dogs have been known to try and find their way back to their old house after moving, because they don't understand what is going on.

I hope my moving experience teaches you something. It went much smoother than moves in the past, and Milly is loving the new house. We are now on 1/2 acre, and our back yard is ginormous! We have a beauitiful solarium attached to the kitchen, and this is Milly's favorite room - it overlooks the backyard, and she just sits there for hours watching the bunnies, squirrels, birds, and chipmunks out the large solarium windows.

Hot Spots: An Overview and At Home Treatment

When I first noticed a small scab on Milly’s neck I dismissed it as a little scab from a tick bite, but by the next day the area was bald, bright red, and oozing puss. I had heard about hot spots, but I’d never owned a dog that suffered from them, and I hastily made a vet appointment to treat this weird large wound. I soon learned this was indeed a hot spot, and the vet shaved the area, cleaned it, told me to switch from a collar to a harness until it healed, sent me home with a spray bottle of medicine to apply twice a day, and a bill of $175. That was the first and last time I went to a vet for a hot spot.

A Google Image of a hot spot

There are many at home remedies for hot spots, but I’ve found the best way is to treat it exactly like a vet would (clip area, clean area, medicate with an antiseptic spray, and keep area clean and dry until healed). You’ll want to invest in a good pair of electric clippers, and while you’re at it, you should go ahead and buy some clipper oil or spray to keep them clean and working well. You can find some great deals for used clippers on Craigslist if you’re looking to save money. You’ll also need a bottle of Listerine (the amber color/original kind, and generic works fine), Gold Bond Medicated Powder, a clean spray bottle, Betadine (you can find it in the first aid aisle at your local pharmacy, and generic is fine), and sterilized gauze pads.

At Home Treatment:

First, shave the area with your electric clippers – I do the closest shave possible. You need to remove the hair not only on the hot spot, but also around it. I usually shave a 2” diameter around the hot spot. To make sure you have shaved the area enough, press the unshaved hair down, and if it touches the hot spot you need to shave more. The idea is you want to keep the area completely hair free during treatment.

Second, mix Betadine and warm water in a small bowl and apply to area with sterilized gauze pads. You need to really get the area clean, not by scrubbing firmly, but by gently massaging the hot spot with a well saturated gauze pad. I usually need 3-4 gauze pads to clean the hot spot and shaved area around the hot spot.

Third, mix a solution of one part water one part Listerine in a spray bottle. I actually do a little more Listerine than water. Shake bottle and spray hot spot. I keep this solution pre-mixed and on hand in the spray bottle for when hot spots crop up. Listerine also doubles as a great product for cleaning ears (use the amber color kind only).

Last, after Listerine has dried, lightly dust the hot spot with Gold Bond Medicated Powder. You don’t want to pack the powder into it, because this prevents the hot spot from “being able to breath.” Just a light dusting of powder is sufficient.

Apply the Listerine solution and Gold Bond to the infected area 2-3 times daily until healed. Apart from when you are treating the area with the Listerine keep the area dry. If the hot spots are within 1-2 inches of your dog’s collar you’ll want to remove the collar until the hot spot heals. You can purchase a harness that sits lower than a collar for walks. If your dog licks or bites at the area you’ll need to use an Elizabethan Collar (the cone shaped collars). I do this entire process at the very first sign of a hot spot. If the hotspot does not improve in a week consult your veterinarian.

Things to know about hot spots:

Hot spots are areas of inflamed skin that develop extremely rapidly – Milly’s first hot spot went from a ball point pen sized scab to a two inch oozing mess in less than 24 hours. Hot spots are commonly found on the face, trunk, and limbs of dogs, but they can develop on other areas too. The inflamed skin/sight of the hot spot may be moist and red, and hair loss may occur.

Hot spots frequently develop as a result of skin irritation that leads to licking or scratching. When a dog works on an itchy site by licking, scratching or biting it this can cause the area to itch more. This starts a cycle of more licking, biting and scratching. Soon a hot spot will develop.

Long haired breeds such as Golden Retrievers and Chow Chows are most often the sufferers of hot spots. However, hot spots can occur in any breed of dog (or mixed breed).

Hot spots are painful for the dog and must be treated. Mild hot spots can be treated with my above recipe or with topical medications containing antibiotics, antiseptic and cortisone. If at home treatment does not work, or the hot spot develops into a larger hot spot veterinary intervention may be required. Very severe hot spots can be life threatening, so treatment is always necessary (whether at home or through your veterinarian).

The leading cause of skin irritation that leads to hot spots is fleas. Using a monthly flea and tick preventative can be very helpful in preventing hot spots. Allergies to food, environmental agents (like pollen); laundry detergents or shampoos also may contribute to the problem.

There are several other conditions including ringworm, mange, and acral lick dermatitis that may cause skin lesions that look like hot spots. If your dog suffers from skin problems a vet check up is always a good idea to rule out other culprits. Once you understand what a hot spot looks like you can try to treat them, often very successfully, at home.

Once a dog develops hot spots, they are much more prone to get them again. You’ll want to keep your dog dry, because hot spots thrive on moisture. I always thoroughly dry Milly after she gets wet with a towel and hair dryer, and this helps prevent hot spots. I also always rinse her after she does any swimming (even in the cleanest of lakes). Do not use any training aids, collars or harnesses that come into contact with a hot spot until it has healed. Regular grooming to remove any dead under coat can help prevent hot spots, remove debris from the coat, and gives you an opportunity to examine your dog closely, and is an opportunity to spot potential hot spots or fleas. Many dogs that suffer from hot spots are actually allergic to ingredients in their food. Corn is a major culprit for many hot spot sufferers, and switching to a corn free diet can really help. You might consider switching to a high quality food with limited ingredients, or even a completely grain free food. Supplementing with fish oil or an Omega 3 supplement like Welactin improves over all coat quality, and in my experience makes hot spots less frequent.

Please note I am not a veterinarian, and this is simply a remedy I and other dog owners have had success with.

Journey to South Carolina and More...

I arrived in Arlington yesterday afternoon following a wonderful long weekend in Camden, South Carolina. Milly and I had a great time down there. Milly stalked my parents’ cats, but when she got close to them she didn’t know what to do, and got scared… so she ran and hid behind me, while peering out at the Munchkin Cats (a breed with regular cat bodies and short legs) from behind my legs. It was very funny to watch, and quite cute!

We spent two nights in Columbia, where Milly was able to enjoy a nice fenced in yard (1/2 an acre = land size that I can’t even fathom living in North Arlington!), and I attended a USC football game – those Gamecock fans sure do know how to party! They started tailgating at 2pm, and the game didn’t even start until 7pm!

After two nights in Columbia, we headed down I-20 for some time in Camden. My parents are moving soon, and I had the difficult task of packing my childhood bedroom and locating all of my belongings in the attic. In packing, I realized just how obsessed with animals I am – almost all of my books are animal related, almost all of the art or photography I own is of animals (mostly of horses), I have three huge boxes full of riding tack and equipment, and my horse and dog grooming products rival a salon’s supply!

While I packed, Milly and Lucy (my dad’s dog that we adopted last Thanksgiving) enjoyed frolicking on 68 acres, most of which is wooded. They would romp through the fields and trees for hours! I will really miss being able to take Milly somewhere with so much space and land for her to roam and simply be a dog. She clearly is much happier in that environment than she is living in the suburbs, but, like most Golden Retrievers she is very adaptable.

Two of the problems with having so much land with wildlife roaming on the property are fleas and ticks. South Carolina’s tick season can be out of control, and in past years, I’ve pulled more than 20 ticks off of Milly in one evening! This tick season isn’t so bad, but the fleas are simply out-of-control! Milly is on Frontline, as is Lucy, and both dogs get Capstar when the fleas get really bad, but even with all of the preventatives and treatments, they both were scratching at fleas by Tuesday morning.

I am thinking about switching from Frontline to Comfortis (a once monthly pill with mixed reviews), but I’m hesitant, because the only time Milly has any flea problems is when she is in South Carolina. I actually don’t use the Frontline after the first frost and until the weather warms up in the spring, because I hate putting the unnecessary chemicals on her body. This method, combined with regular bathing, has worked for her, and I’ve never seen a tick or flea on her since moving to Arlington – maybe the fleas don’t like urban living either!

Before I left on my trip, I wrote about purchasing probiotics from Nature’s Farmacy, and I am thrilled with the results (after only 2 feedings)!!! First, the product was waiting for me when I returned from South Carolina yesterday, and I love fast shipping. Second, a two pound container was only $34.95, and I feed just over ½ teaspoon once daily, so it will last a long time. Third, the container is very sturdy, which I like for travel. Lastly, Milly loves the stuff! It is a powder that comes with a little scoop and you simply sprinkle the enzymes over your dog’s food. I mixed it in with her Fromm Surf & Turf kibble, Wysong Rabbit canned food, and water, and she licked her bowl for 10 minutes after the feeding! Normally, Milly just walks away from her bowl when she has finished a meal, but she seems to really like her new supplement.

On one final note, I recently joined the Junior League of Washington, DC. Before you think this is an organization full of "ladies who lunch" or ladies that play bridge all afternoon, know that the community service requirements for me as a first year member are insane! But, I'm very excited to really become involved in my community! Tonight, I will be heading into the District for volunteer training for the National Book Festival, and on Saturday I will be volunteering at the festival. As many of you know, I absolutely love reading, and was an English major with a concentration in creative writing. Needless to say, I was thrilled when I learned the Junior League of Washington’s main project is literacy! For a long time I have been very interested in two programs called Paws to Read and R.E.A.D. (Reading Education Assistance Dogs), and I am hoping that in time I can encourage the League to become a part of this wonderful organization.

I also found this amazing photo of a Golden Retriever/Labrador cross dressed as Mother Goose. If only I could sew, I’d make this costume for Milly! How amazing would it be if I could work with children and inspire them to read with the help of Milly in a Mother Goose costume? I keep telling myself this really isn't out of reach, as the last time we went in public to work on our CGC test practice she was PERFECT (I even asked a stranger at the pet supply store to hold her while I walked outside for a few minutes!), and therapy work doesn't seem that far off!

I’m a dreamer… if you can’t already tell…

Preventative Medicine

There are a lot of preventatives out there that many pet owners chose to use to best take care of their pets – regular vaccines, heartworm and parasite preventatives, and flea and tick preventatives are some of the most popular. There is debate as to whether or not these do more harm than good, but the general consensus is use them if you are in an area with a high prevalence of heart worm (caused by mosquitoes), fleas or ticks (ticks can cause Lyme disease and other tick borne illnesses) then you should use them.

Personally, I use heartworm preventative monthly, but only use flea/tick preventative in the fall, spring and summer. I do feel that doing a limited flea/tick preventative means I have to be that much more diligent about checking for fleas and ticks, and testing annually for Lyme and other tick borne illnesses, but I also worry about putting toxins on my dog.

There is even an entire movement to stop vaccinating dogs, or vaccinate on a limited schedule – I support limited vaccination, or simply not over vaccinating. In many states the rabies vaccine must be administered annually, even though this vaccine is good for three years of protection. Some states have caught onto the risks associated with over vaccination, and are now recognizing the three-year rabies vaccine. Last year I chose to use the new Lyme vaccine, and now looking back on it I’m not sure if I would make that same choice today having learned more about the risks associated with this particular vaccine, and over vaccinating in general. It’s hard, because I live in an area where Lyme disease is extremely prevalent (I myself have had Lyme twice, and both times were from Virginia ticks), but at the same time having learned the risks of the vaccine I question this decision.

Don’t get me wrong, there are many wonderful things to using preventative medicine, and the good tends to far out way the bad, but do do your research, and don’t over-do-it with the preventatives.

When it comes to acquiring your flea/tick or heartworm preventatives the safest place to guarantee an authentic product is from your veterinarian’s office. I believe all heartworm preventatives require a prescription and/or annual heartworm blood test, and some brands of flea/tick preventatives are only available through veterinarians, but do not require an RX.

However, getting these products from your vet can be expensive. Often the vet has already marked up the prices to cover shipping charges, etc. You must be careful before ordering online, as there are many imitators out there selling counterfeit products, but here are some reputable sites to buy these products at a lower cost to you, the consumer.

EntirelyPets.com has great prices on a variety of medications and supplements, and they give even greater discounts when you buy in bulk. 1-800 Pet Meds is also a legitimate resource for these products. You can also find these products at SmartPak.com for less than some veterinarians sell them. I would avoid turning to eBay, Amazon.com or small unknown companies to buy these products, as there is a risk of buying any medication online.