I have to confess… I have been absolutely terrified to groom Hush. I bathe her, and I trim her nails, but that’s about where I draw the line. I know that Golden Retrievers need regularly trimming – their tails need to be trimmed a certain way, their feet should be trimmed to look neat and tidy and cat like, and their ears should be trimmed to emphasize their heads. I even have excellent step-by-step instructions that are a great starting point for grooming. But, while I’m comfortable doing all of Milly’s grooming and trimming myself, just the thought of raising my thinning shears to Hush’s ears puts a big knot in my stomach!
I do want to learn, but no matter how much I read, I feel that I’m really going to need to learn in a hands-on manner, and no book will show me the proper technique. As a result, anytime I put pictures of Hush on Facebook her breeder always comments “SHE NEEDS TO BE TRIMMED!!!” And, I hang my head in shame, for having the pick of the litter, and being too petrified of messing up to do the necessary trimming.
Before I got Hush, I learned of the Olde Towne School for Dogs, a well-respected training facility, pet boutique, and grooming salon in the heart of Old Town, Alexandria. In fact, this place has such a solid reputation the First Dog, Bo Obama himself, has his spa treatments performed there. But, with celebrity canines and White House woofers frequenting the establishment, getting an appointment is nearly impossible. I’ve been on the waiting list for months, and feared I would never get “the call.” Of course, having researched the place before starting handling class, I needed to confirm this was a solid place to send a show dog. I asked around, and numerous top breeders from a variety of breeds all said, “this is the ONLY place to go with a show dog.”
Well, this afternoon, I got the call! There had been a cancellation, and if I could get Hush there in the next 20-minutes, I had an appointment! My heart skipped a beat, and of course, I said I would be right there. But, I know to be cautious of groomers, so before heading over I printed out my grooming/trimming instructions and brought them with me. Much to my surprise, when I dropped Hush off I was greeted by an old college friend, and fellow Hollins University alum, who explained the owner, is also a Hollins grad!
When I arrived I handed over my instructions, and was told they have excellent groomers, and I need not worry. I explained I had heard nothing but great things, but I wanted to make sure whoever would be trimming Hush was familiar with the breed standard, because she is a show dog. My friend called over the owner to introduce me, and mentioned Hush was a show dog. With this, Hush was immediately swept away, after the owner wrote in huge letters on the grooming sheet, “SHOW DOG!” and assured me only their top groomers, familiar with breed standards, would touch her!
You might remember my post from over a year ago discussing the Furminator de-Shedding Tool. At the time, I thought the Furminator was the greatest tool ever invented, and would be a great weapon in combating Milly's shedding. Because this blog is about my education, I must say, that I no longer have those positive feelings about the Furminator.
My biggest complaints with the Furminator is it is not gentle on the coat, is easily overused, causes the hairs to break, and tends to pull off a large portion of the top coat and not just the loose undercoat. I've seen some horror scenes of post Furminator grooming, and watched many people at the dog wash remove way too much coat. The Furminator can also easily damage a dog's skin if used too frequently, or incorrectly.
On a Golden Retriever, a good way to tell if you are removing loose under coat is if the hair is whitish/cream in color and sort of whispy. If you are removing top coat, you'll find the hair clumps up much more tightly, and is darker, like the color of your dog's coat.
Last week, I picked up a great tool at The Muddy Mutt, the dog-wash I frequent bi-weekly. This, like the Furminator is a tool designed to remove loose undercoat, but unlike the Furminator it is very difficult to remove the top coat with this tool. The shape of the handle is a rake style, like the Furminator, but rather than having the metal blade found on the Furminator this grooming rage has two rows of plastic teeth. I tested the Furminator on one side of Milly's body, and the grooming rake on the other side. I was amazed at how much more undercoat the grooming rake removed than the Furminator. And, the rake did not remove any top coat, but the Furminator did! At around $10, this is a very economical purchase, and much cheaper than the Furminator.
I've started using the rake fairly regularly after misting Milly's coat, and the results have been spectacular! With the Furminator, even with regular use, I still found large clumps of Milly hair throughout the house. But, with the new grooming rake, I've seen a huge decrease in the amounts of hair she sheds.
The grooming rake I purchased is made by Master Grooming Tools. It has 39 plastic teeth (in two rows), and a very comfortable ergonomic handle. It is so easy to use, just put the rake in the coat, and pull gently in the direction of the hair growth. I'm so glad I discovered this great product. You can find your own right here on Amazon!
I recently learned that you should never brush a dry Golden Retriever, because brushing a dry coat can damage and break the coat. When I learned this, I was shocked! How could so many books I've read on Golden Retrievers not disclose this seemingly simple detail?
As soon as I learned this I was worried that I'd only be able to brush Milly when she is soaking wet during a bath, but that just didn't seem right to me. So, I asked a couple of breeders and a few groomers what this new fact meant to pet owners like me. I was told that you do not want to brush a soaking wet Golden Retriever, but wait for the coat to dry some. Between baths, you can simply mist the coat with a spray bottle of water before brushing!
I started doing this about three weeks ago, and I've been amazed at how much shinier Milly's coat is. I picked up a cheap pink spray bottle at my local pharmacy, and filled it with Falls Church city water. I then added a small squirt of conditioner (that had already been heavily diluted with water) to my water in the spray bottle. Voila! I can now safely brush Milly without worrying about damaging her coat. I know many of you have Golden Retrievers and other long haired dogs, and thought I'd share this with you.
I simply mist Milly all over and then brush her. If any areas get dry, I re-mist her with my spray bottle. I highly recommend doing this, and have found it really makes a difference in how easily the brush or comb moves through her coat.
On Monday, July 5th, I celebrated my 26th Birthday! Wow, I can't believe how old I'm getting, and that I've been out of college for over three years! That feels like just yesterday! Time sure does fly!
For a long time you know that I've been simply dying for a Dremel. One of my first posts was about grinding dog nails vs. clipping nails, and all of the benefits to grinding (I highly recommend you read it if you're interested in grinding). For my birthday, I received a very special gift, a Dremel Tool Kit!!! I know, most girls probably wouldn't be quite as ecstatic to get a power tool, but for me this is better than Tiffany's! I can now cross the Dremel off of my Ultimate Grooming Wish List!!!
I debated for a long time if I wanted to simply buy the Oster or Dremel nail grinder, but decided in the end, I wanted the real Dremel. A Dremel has varying speeds, and makes trimming nails very easy - many dogs that won't tolerate nail trimming, will tolerate nail grinding, if the groomer is patient and has a pocket full of treats. One of the main reasons I opted for the Dremel over other nail grinders on the market is quality, and the ability to use it for other things, say, like what it's made for! I have absolutely no experience, what-so-ever, with woodworking, but now that I have a Dremel, I'm going to give it a shot. The tool kit came with numerous attachments that will be handy for woodworking, and also included a sanding attachment and a sanding belt, which I will use for the nail grinding.
I find the DoberDawn.com website very handy for learning how to safely Dremel a dog's nails. She really breaks it down into steps, and by providing the reader with lots of pictures, you're able to learn how to safely grind your dog's nails.
Now that I’m committed to researching the right products and stopping impulse spending, I’m busy saving for the better products I should have bought in the beginning. Here are the tools and products I am pinching pennies and saving for.
I’m simply dying to purchase the Chris Christensen Kool-Dry dryer (in pink!). This is the crème de la crème of dryers! Known as the professionals’ choice, especially if you have more than one dog to groom, it’s sure to be a favorite once you use it. The Kool Dry features a variable output blower from whisper to blast, and dries quickly without added heat to damage the coat. This dryer is powerful yet quiet, it’s compact and comes with an extra long (nine foot) hose and two styles of nozzles! As you know I gave up professional groomings for Milly last summer and put aside the money saved to make this purchase, the money is ready, but it’s hard to convince myself to fork over $350 for a dog dryer!
I love to bargain on EVERYTHING! I’m planning on seeing if Chris Christensen can throw in a free brush with the dryer purchase whenever I get myself mentally prepared for such a big spend. The brush of choice is the Chris Christensen 20mm Fusion Brass Oval Pin Brush! At $50 normally this is one I’m really hoping to be able to bargain in as the freebie! This is a brush that will last me a lifetime of grooming!
Another Chris Christensen brush I’d love to get is the new wooden pin brush– ¾” pin length, 8 ½” body, in oval. This is great for detangling the coat without damaging it! The Carpino Wood pins work to delicately separate out the area of the tangle from the rest of the hair, then work gently to loosen by drawing individual hairs upward and out to the side yet away from the knot. The wooden pins eliminate painful pulling on individual hair follicles that can possible damage or break the hair under the strain. This will also eliminate tightening any knots which are already present. The wooden pins utilize the natural oils to polish the hair by distributing sebum and/or applied oils. It’s also 100% static free! At a cost of $35 it’s not cheap, but well worth it!
With all these brushes there are also times I need a good comb. Metal combs are optimum, and the best comb available is the Belgian Greyhound metal comb. The prices I’ve seen vary on these, but I’ve found one for $28 (plus shipping) and I’m ready to splurge!
Before I can groom I need to be able to give a great bath, while I’m really hoping to one day have a grooming table and a grooming tub, those are on hold for now – along with the Isle of Dog Royal Jelly Shampoo! For now I'll stick with my Cowboy Magic Rosewater Shampoo (diluted, of course).
I’d like to purchase some shammie towels (the generic ShamWow) which are only a few dollars. I’d also like a good microfiber mitt for Milly’s face (she’s very sensitive and a little head shy), and these work great - you can get them for less than $5 at your local auto parts store and they are soooooo soft!
And of course, I really need a Dremel! This is on the top of the list for ideal nail grinding (this reduces the risk of the nail splitting, and it’s harder to hit the quick if you grind the nail as opposed to clipping them). I'm debating between getting a regular Dremel, or buying the Oster nail grinder (I've heard this is good). If you are thinking about getting a nail grinder I'll warn you to stay away from PediPaws (unless you have a toy breed), as it really is not capable of grinding larger nails. A Dremel would be useful for non-dog projects, but is more expensive than the Oster Nail Grinder. The Oster would save me money, but is really only useful for nail grinding. Oh the choices!
I hope you enjoyed reading about the items I hope to one day purchase! They're very expensive, especially when you add them all up, but a girl has got to dream!
I’ve spent a lot of money on dog related products over the years, I shudder to think of the amount spent, and I’m grateful I don’t have the receipts from every dog-related purchase or I might have a heart attack if I ever saw the grand total! One thing I’ve found is I buy a product, try it out, and then find a product I like more, or learn why the product I bought isn’t quite as wonderful as I initially thought or marketing told me it would be.
I’ve gotten sick and tired of this. I waste money by not initially buying the better product, usually a bit more expensive than my first purchase, because I end up buying the cheaper product and then the more costly better product. I have a dog supply graveyard, a basket full of no longer useful training aids, grooming tools, and toys. I could have avoided this by just buying the better grooming tools and training aids from the get-go, but the toys are a bit trickier, as every dog has their own personal opinions regarding what is fun to play with!
What’s in the basket you might ask? Two slicker brushes – they work, they do the job, but I feel like they actually kind of damage the coat. They’ve since been replaced by a Chris Christensen slicker brush (which I love!) that cost the same as the two inferior ones. A Gentle Leader halter – Milly hated it, and I prefer actually training her to walk loosely on a leash. A Sporn Harness – this worked, but I’ve since replaced it with a prong collar for walks and Milly has really learned loose leash walking (even on a flat collar)! A retractable leash – they’re dangerous, they can literally decapitate your fingers, and they promote leash pulling. Nail clippers – many different types. Shampoos – many contain high amounts of alcohol and dull the coat. And that’s just the first layer of stuff in the basket!
In a world full of so many doggie doodads it’s hard to know what the better product actually is. Believe it or not, often the best dog products aren’t even available at big pet supply stores like Petsmart or Petco! They’re instead made by smaller companies who cater to the extremely educated dog owner or dog professional – whether it is a show breeder, handler, groomer, or dog trainer – and can be purchased online, at pet expo’s, dog show vendors or specialty boutiques.
In an effort to end this silly frivolous spending I contacted a Golden Retriever breeder whom I admire and respect greatly. I asked her what the best grooming tools she owns are, and why. What exactly I need, and don’t need. I’m slowly acquiring them, but there are many I’m still saving for.
Want to do the same thing, but own a different breed? Join your local breed club and contact other members for advice! You might spend a bit more up front, but you’ll save in the end!
When the day comes that I no longer lease, and I find myself a homeowner, I have plans of transforming my basement into a dog grooming room. I’ve looked into what tubs are the best, saved up for a professional dog dryer, have selected my grooming table of choice, and even drawn out how I want everything laid out!
Until that day comes I am stuck with either bathing Milly in the driveway with a hose and drying her with a hair dryer on the cold setting, spending $65 at the groomer for a bath and brush (I’m particular about where she goes, because she is geriatric and I need to know the groomer will give her breaks throughout the process), clogging my shower drain and struggling to rinse her in my walk-in shower, or going to the do-it yourself dog wash!
I’ve found a fabulous dog wash in Shirlington (a part of Arlington, VA) called The Muddy Mutt. For $17 (you get your 6th wash free) you are provided with a professional grooming tub that is off the wall so you can scrub from both sides, professional all-natural and organic shampoos (mixed on site for your dog’s particular needs), a professional AirForce brand dryer, all the brushes and combs you could need, an unlimited supply of treats, an unlimited supply of ShamWow’s (they’re great, but the generic sold at AutoZone work even better, incase you were wondering), and the softest wash cloths I’ve ever felt. The Muddy Mutt backs up to the ShirlingtonDogPark, talk about prime location, and is owned by the sweetest lady who will help you through the entire process and answer all of your questions. They even have a small retail section, and provide you with aprons so you can leave just as clean as you entered! The Muddy Mutt supports pet adoptions by offering one free wash to any dog adopted from a reputable within the last three months.
A dog waits to be bathed in the grooming area
For senior dogs and dogs with limited mobility they offer ramps!
They have all sorts of fun dog accessories, toys and leashes in their growing retail section!
While I have the money saved up for the Chris Christensen Kool Dry Dryer I’ve been coveting, I’m a bit hesitant to make the purchase in the winter. It truly is back breaking work to bathe Milly in the driveway, and it’s way too cold this time of year, and it is just a big mess to do her in my shower (the drain clogs just from my hair so think of what Golden Retriever fur does to it!). I never thought it could be so painful to be bent over for so long, but after grooming her at home my back usually hurts for two days. So, until I can groom her in the driveway with the hose again, I’m happily spending my money at The Muddy Mutt.
If you’ve never used a grooming tub and professional dryer you don’t know what you’re missing! I can get Milly 90% dry with a professional dryer in under 5 minutes! With a regular hair dryer on the cold setting we’re looking at over an hour of coat damaging work. A professional dryer works by blowing the water off the coat, and then you can adjust the settings for detail work. The lack of heat makes this a pet-safe tool that can be used weekly (or more) with out causing skin and coat irritations. If you are spending a fortune or hurting yourself grooming at home you should check if there is a self-service grooming salon/dog wash in your area – it’s totally worth the money!
The Muddy Mutt is conveniently located (walking distance!) from my very dog friendly office. I can take Milly to work in the morning, let her play and get really filthy for a few minutes at the park, and simply put her in a tub and scrub, scrub, scrub.
This is one business I happily frequent every other week - and where I'll be spending my lunch break today! Miss Muddy Paws gives The Muddy Mutt FOUR PERFECT PAWS!
Recently, Milly and I spent a lot of time outside, and at some point during out nature romps Milly had a love affair with a pine tree, or at least that's what I'm thinking must have happened. I didn't notice it until we got home and was combing through her coat. She was covered in sap in small patches all over her coat and even on her face! If your dog has never gotten sap on their coat it is not something I would wish on anyone! First, it's sticky. You touch it and it gets on you. Second, the hair balls all together into a tangled mess. Bubble gum in my hair had nothing on my sap covered dog! It was an utter nightmare, and I had no idea what to use to remove it.
My gut said try something oil based - I went with bath oil (what I had on hand) - and this did work somewhat, but not as much as I'd like. I then e-mailed one of my favorite Golden Retriever breeders knowing she'd have the answer. Her response was to keep applying oil (but use baby oil) to the sappy spots, and then give a bath in Dawn dish soap. So lots of baby oil later (this is a timely process), and a bath in diluted Dawn dish soap (to remove the oil - you can use full strength in the super oily spots) Milly was good as new. Thank goodness I was able to get it out, because I really did not want to have to resort to cutting her coat, especially her feathers!
So before you hit the woods for a hike remember baby oil and Dawn dish soap will remove the sap!
When I first noticed a small scab on Milly’s neck I dismissed it as a little scab from a tick bite, but by the next day the area was bald, bright red, and oozing puss. I had heard about hot spots, but I’d never owned a dog that suffered from them, and I hastily made a vet appointment to treat this weird large wound. I soon learned this was indeed a hot spot, and the vet shaved the area, cleaned it, told me to switch from a collar to a harness until it healed, sent me home with a spray bottle of medicine to apply twice a day, and a bill of $175. That was the first and last time I went to a vet for a hot spot.
A Google Image of a hot spot
There are many at home remedies for hot spots, but I’ve found the best way is to treat it exactly like a vet would (clip area, clean area, medicate with an antiseptic spray, and keep area clean and dry until healed). You’ll want to invest in a good pair of electric clippers, and while you’re at it, you should go ahead and buy some clipper oil or spray to keep them clean and working well. You can find some great deals for used clippers on Craigslist if you’re looking to save money. You’ll also need a bottle of Listerine (the amber color/original kind, and generic works fine), Gold Bond Medicated Powder, a clean spray bottle, Betadine (you can find it in the first aid aisle at your local pharmacy, and generic is fine), and sterilized gauze pads.
At Home Treatment:
First, shave the area with your electric clippers – I do the closest shave possible. You need to remove the hair not only on the hot spot, but also around it. I usually shave a 2” diameter around the hot spot. To make sure you have shaved the area enough, press the unshaved hair down, and if it touches the hot spot you need to shave more. The idea is you want to keep the area completely hair free during treatment.
Second, mix Betadine and warm water in a small bowl and apply to area with sterilized gauze pads. You need to really get the area clean, not by scrubbing firmly, but by gently massaging the hot spot with a well saturated gauze pad. I usually need 3-4 gauze pads to clean the hot spot and shaved area around the hot spot.
Third, mix a solution of one part water one part Listerine in a spray bottle. I actually do a little more Listerine than water. Shake bottle and spray hot spot. I keep this solution pre-mixed and on hand in the spray bottle for when hot spots crop up. Listerine also doubles as a great product for cleaning ears (use the amber color kind only).
Last, after Listerine has dried, lightly dust the hot spot with Gold Bond Medicated Powder. You don’t want to pack the powder into it, because this prevents the hot spot from “being able to breath.” Just a light dusting of powder is sufficient.
Apply the Listerine solution and Gold Bond to the infected area 2-3 times daily until healed. Apart from when you are treating the area with the Listerine keep the area dry. If the hot spots are within 1-2 inches of your dog’s collar you’ll want to remove the collar until the hot spot heals. You can purchase a harness that sits lower than a collar for walks. If your dog licks or bites at the area you’ll need to use an Elizabethan Collar (the cone shaped collars). I do this entire process at the very first sign of a hot spot. If the hotspot does not improve in a week consult your veterinarian.
Things to know about hot spots:
Hot spots are areas of inflamed skin that develop extremely rapidly – Milly’s first hot spot went from a ball point pen sized scab to a two inch oozing mess in less than 24 hours. Hot spots are commonly found on the face, trunk, and limbs of dogs, but they can develop on other areas too. The inflamed skin/sight of the hot spot may be moist and red, and hair loss may occur.
Hot spots frequently develop as a result of skin irritation that leads to licking or scratching. When a dog works on an itchy site by licking, scratching or biting it this can cause the area to itch more. This starts a cycle of more licking, biting and scratching. Soon a hot spot will develop.
Long haired breeds such as Golden Retrievers and Chow Chows are most often the sufferers of hot spots. However, hot spots can occur in any breed of dog (or mixed breed).
Hot spots are painful for the dog and must be treated. Mild hot spots can be treated with my above recipe or with topical medications containing antibiotics, antiseptic and cortisone. If at home treatment does not work, or the hot spot develops into a larger hot spot veterinary intervention may be required. Very severe hot spots can be life threatening, so treatment is always necessary (whether at home or through your veterinarian).
The leading cause of skin irritation that leads to hot spots is fleas. Using a monthly flea and tick preventative can be very helpful in preventing hot spots. Allergies to food, environmental agents (like pollen); laundry detergents or shampoos also may contribute to the problem.
There are several other conditions including ringworm, mange, and acral lick dermatitis that may cause skin lesions that look like hot spots. If your dog suffers from skin problems a vet check up is always a good idea to rule out other culprits. Once you understand what a hot spot looks like you can try to treat them, often very successfully, at home.
Once a dog develops hot spots, they are much more prone to get them again. You’ll want to keep your dog dry, because hot spots thrive on moisture. I always thoroughly dry Milly after she gets wet with a towel and hair dryer, and this helps prevent hot spots. I also always rinse her after she does any swimming (even in the cleanest of lakes). Do not use any training aids, collars or harnesses that come into contact with a hot spot until it has healed. Regular grooming to remove any dead under coat can help prevent hot spots, remove debris from the coat, and gives you an opportunity to examine your dog closely, and is an opportunity to spot potential hot spots or fleas. Many dogs that suffer from hot spots are actually allergic to ingredients in their food. Corn is a major culprit for many hot spot sufferers, and switching to a corn free diet can really help. You might consider switching to a high quality food with limited ingredients, or even a completely grain free food. Supplementing with fish oil or an Omega 3 supplement like Welactin improves over all coat quality, and in my experience makes hot spots less frequent.
Please note I am not a veterinarian, and this is simply a remedy I and other dog owners have had success with.
When it comes to bathing I never thought to dilute the shampoo or conditioner, especially because the directions on the type I most frequently use (Cowboy Magic) does not say to dilute, but I’ve recently learned this is the grooming secret most pet owners don’t know. Grooming salons dilute, breeders dilute, show handlers dilute – pretty much across the board shampoos and conditioners are diluted before being applied, even those that do not specify you should dilute are diluted by the professionals in the dog world. So why don’t pet owners know this? Well, first, not many basic books geared at your average pet owner discuss this. Second, have you ever taken a course on grooming? Probably not, but kudos if you have! Third, and probably the most obvious, you buy more products if you are using more of them.
I’ve started diluting 2-to-1 – two parts water for every one part shampoo. I’ve found it makes it much easier to evenly apply the shampoo or conditioner, and I can now get a nice thick lather all over. It is easier to rinse, because you are using less shampoo, and the shampoo is evenly dispersed. I like to keep my shampoo in an easy to dispense bottle, and a ketchup bottle is perfect! You can either buy the plastic kind seen at hot dog stands (that you fill yourself), or recycle an empty bottle around the house. I prefer the kind from hot dog stands, because it’s easier to squirt from. Simply fill the bottle with 1 part shampoo, and then two parts water, and shake before use. You’ll want to have a very gentle water stream as you fill the bottle to prevent lots of bubbles, and so you can actually fill the bottle with water. I’ve marked my ketchup bottle with lines so I know where to fill to with shampoo and water. I’ve found one bottle of diluted shampoo is 3-4 baths, and it is less than the amount of shampoo I was using on one bath before I began diluting.
Once I’ve applied my diluted shampoo mixture I like to use my hands to really massage the coat, but if you are bathing very frequently, you will want to massage a little less to make sure you aren’t over doing the bathing and damaging the coat.
Want to know another way companies are getting your pennies? One of the most expensive words ever created for consumers was “Repeat”. Ever read the instructions that say, Wash… Rinse… Repeat? If you are giving a good bath, and really massaging the coat and evenly applying the shampoo you won’t need to repeat. Rumor has it, this step was added to shampoo instructions decades ago when a shampoo company was trying to figure out how to improve profits without raising the price. This could be an old wives tail, but it makes sense. There really is no reason you would need to repeat a bath, but yet this instruction step remains on dog and human shampoos alike.
For detail work, or to keep your dog’s coat fresh between baths, you might be familiar with the no-rinse waterless sprays on the market. I dilute these A LOT. I put just a few capfuls of the product (yup, none of the ones I own say to dilute) in a spray bottle, and add water. Shake before using. I find when diluted the spray nozzle is less likely to become clogged, and the product works just as well diluted.
Want to save even more money? You could make a dog shampoo with products found around your house. I’ve never tried this recipe, but I’ve heard great things about it:
1 part Soft Soap (antibacterial handsoap, the clear kind, generic works fine) 1 part white vinegar 1 part water
Put all products in a bottle, and shake before use. The vinegar does a great job of cleaning the coat without damaging it and removing product build up, and the Soft Soap actually cleans and conditions.
Happy bathing!
Update: I also wanted to let everyone know that Rachel's families dogs have been found, and despite a small scrape on one's nose they are in great shape, and happy to be home!
Over the past 1.5 years, I have become somewhat obsessed with Golden Retrievers, and dogs in general. I have always grown up with animals, but it seems recently this obsession has taken on a whole new level.
I spend most of my spare time researching dog facts. I want to know the insides and outs to everything. Part of my motivation is because I want to purchase a puppy, and become involved in showing. Right now I'm out to learn whatever I can, and I feel I've learned A LOT! I'm starting to figure out what to look for in a pedigree, I know the criteria to have when selecting a reputable breeder, and I am slowly learning what makes a good conformation dog. I also want to learn how to give Milly, my Golden Retriever rescue, the best care possible.
In my attempts of giving her fantastic care, I have become very interested in grooming. I've always loved brushing Milly, and taking care of her coat, but now I really am striving to groom her myself. For years I groomed my show horses myself, and rode them to top national rankings, and the bond between owner and animal during grooming is amazing! In a way, I am using my dog obsession to replace the bond I once had with my horses (I no longer own horses, though continue to ride). With Milly's grooming, I strive to bathe her (I've done lots of research on what shampoos are appropriate for her coat type, and to work with her skin allergies), the right way to dry her, how to get her coat to lay just-so, how to trim her paws, how to clip (or dremel) her nails, how to trim ears, and yes, I've even researched (though yet to attempt, because I am still researching, and would like my vet to go over it with me first) how to expel her anal glands myself.
In many ways, Milly is my Golden Retriever grooming guinea pig, and when I groom her, I tend to spend hours doing the entire process - from the bath to the ear trimming - Milly loves it. She really thrives on human touch, and for her, grooming is Heaven.
I know my grooming abilities have a long way to go, but I'd say I'm pretty darn close to being able to do exactly what the groomers in the DC area do and charge $65 for. It might take me three hours to do so, but I can get her coat to lay just so, not show ring grooming, but still very nice and tidy for regular maintenance groomings. I spend a lot of the grooming getting her coat to lie just so, and afterwards I really hate putting her collar back on.
The past two weeks Milly has spent collarless, and I really like the way her coat is lying. I do worry, because afterall, identification tags are pretty critical in reuniting a dog with their owner if ever seperated, but I've noticed the hair on her neck is really growing in nicely, and thickening.
Many show dog owners and top breeders would never leave a collar on their dog at all times, but for most pet owners this is standard. There are many merits to having a collar on a dog, and the safety factor is paramount, but it has been intereting for me to do this collarless experiment with Milly's grooming for the past two weeks. I've seen big changes in her coat not wearing the collar, I don't think this trend will last long, but it has been neat to see. All in all, with lots of supervision, and very secure fencing, I see no reason why a dog would need a collar on at all times. Yes, it's a precaution, but right now I want to prepare myself in many little day-to-day ways for owning a show dog, and I've surprisingly loved what I've seen in Milly not wearing one.
A year ago, I bought a harness when Milly had a hot spot that interfered with her collar, because I was so worried about not having all of her tags on her at all times. While there are great reasons behind doing that... I am really enjoying being open minded, and absorbing all I can about a side of the dog world that I knew little about a year and a half ago.
Took Milly to my favorite groomer, "For Pet's Sake" today. I love how close they are to my office, and they are so great with her. In fact, when I dropped her off they did not take her back and crate her, but instead let her hang out up front at the register. When I arrived to pick her up when she was done she was again not in the back like most dogs, but instead lounging up front greeting the customers and soaking up the attention of the grooming salon's owner and the groomers! I've always had great experiences going here, but today seeing the individual attention they gave Milly really made me that much more of a loyal customer. When I payed they informed me they are having 3 drawings for a year of free groomings this summer, and so I entered. I was so pleased with the results, and possibility of free groomings for a year that I left feeling very lucky. On my way home I decided to continue the luck and invested $7 in the lottery - I've already lost $5, and am nervous to check the Mega Millions tickets online.
There are all sorts of brands of dog perfumes and body splashes on the market, but must of them contain harsh chemicals and alcohol that can dry and irritate the coat. No one wants their pooch to smell nice at the expense of a shiny and beautiful coat, and at the expense of their pup’s health, wellbeing and comfort.
I actually grew up making my own linen spray (my mom taught me how when I was 8) out of water and organic lavender oil. I kept it in a spray bottle and would spritz my sheets and pillowcase each night before bed (and sometimes spritz myself). I have always had trouble sleeping and the lavender did seem to have a very calming effect on me. It was so simple to make this spray – simply fill a spray bottle with water (I prefer filtered or bottled water for this purpose) and add 10-15 drops of organic lavender essential oil (add more for a stronger scent) and shake before using. In the same way I made this linen/sheet spray I have made similar natural fly repellents for horses and “perfumes” for dogs. When I am making a dog perfume I prefer to go with essential oils of citrus fruits (think grapefruit, lemon, orange and lime) with a small amount of lavender, and a small amount of chamomile – but really it is up to your own personal scent preferences. Making your own dog perfumes with organic essential oils (which can be found in health food stores) is cost effective in the long haul, but the initial cost of the essential oils can quickly add up. The annoying part of making it yourself is you do have to shake it before use, so if you’d like a store bought natural option I’d recommend the Pure Dog Freshener.
(I took this photo with my webcam, and I apologize that it is a mirror image - thus the font on the bottle is backwards)
Pure Dog Freshener is a green product, and will not harm the environment and when you have finished the bottle you can recycle the empty bottle to be extra environmentally friendly. As an all natural product, I have found this to not irritate Milly what-so-ever. On the contrary, I have experience with the non-natural, chemical containing doggie perfumes, because the groomers at Petsmart and other large scale big box store groom salons sometimes use the harsher chemical perfumes on her post bath, and these cause irritations to her skin. The nice thing about the mostly rubbing alcohol, high in chemical, non-natural dog body splashes and perfumes is they come in a variety of scents (everything from Vanilla to Pina Colada to Strawberry Splash – whatever that is), but at the expense of an itchy dog it really is not worth it to me.
I love the rejuvenating aroma of the citrus scents, and Milly does not seem to mind being spritzed down one bit with either the Pure Dog Freshener. Because citruses can irritate the eyes please use caution when trying this product on your dog, and be sure to avoid their face. I have found that using Pure Dog Freshener every few days can add an extra week to Milly’s grooming sessions before she starts to smell like “a dog”, and to me that is worth it! I bought my bottle for under $10 (I want to say in the $5-8 range, but can’t remember) at a small mom-and-pop pet supply store specializing in carrying natural and high-end pet products. It was worth every cent, and I love the scent!
Don’t forget to enter the Austrian Crystal Dog Bone Pendant GIVEAWAY!!!
With spring in full swing and summer just around the corner many dog owners are spending more and more time outdoors with their pets. If you live in a relatively urban area, and enjoy taking your dog for a swim in rivers, creeks or bays it is probably a good idea to at the very least rinse your pet off with fresh, clean water post swim. For those Chesapeake Bay area readers, last summer I read in a local Annapolis publication dogs should always be rinsed or bathed after swimming in the bay.
A good rinsing is important, but sometimes you need to do a thorough bathing, and with so many wonderful and exciting outdoor pet-friendly activities I find myself having to up the bathing during the summer months.
When it comes to grooming products there are countless options, but I’ve been usingCowboy Magic for over a decade and LOVE their products. I began using their products only on horses, but must admit the Rosewater Shampoo and Rosewater Conditioners smell so good I’ve used them on my own hair a handful of times. About a year ago I learned these products are appropriate for use on dogs too, and promptly started using them on Milly. I love them, because not only do they smell heavenly, but they also leave the coat shiny and smooth. Did I mention these products won’t break the bank either? I’ve seen a bottle of the shampoo for as low as $5.50! The shampoo is so moisturizing that you can get by without using the conditioner, but I find the combination of shampoo followed by conditioner really leaves the coat much softer. The shampoo lathers very nicely and is a high quality shampoo, so remember to rinse your dog very thoroughly.
In the summer I like to towel Milly off and then sit with her in the sun for a little natural drying, I then finish up the drying with a blow dryer on the cool setting. If your dog is prone to hotspots make sure you thoroughly dry your dog after each bathing session, because wet hair can lead to hot spots.
Overall, I give Cowboy Magic 4-Paws and 5-Stars!!
Don’t forget there is still time to enter the Bully Stick GIVEAWAY!
